A Book Review of Sorts - Tears of the Dawn

I begin this entry by admitting that I haven’t read all that many books on others climbing adventures.  However, I do read a lot in general and as many of you know, I have a love for Scotland and most things Scottish.  It has something to do with a love for the land, the people and the beautiful rugged terrain of the country.  I did an independent study class in Scottish History in college and I've visited numerous times.  It reminds me a lot of the hills and valleys in Virginia and West Virginia and that’s home.  So with that in mind I decided I might as well do a blog entry doing a brief overview/review of Jules Lines’ new book, Tears of the Dawn.

First, a little background...

Many of you are likely asking, “who?” Jules Lines is without a doubt Scotland’s most accomplished free solo climber and probably one of the best climbers you’ve never heard of.  The book recounts his various adventures and misadventures of over three decades of extreme climbing.  From completing the ascent of all 277 Munros before finishing school (a Munro is a mountain in Scotland over 3000 ft.) to the continuing challenges of today.  His latest completed free solo project is “Hold Fast, Hold True”, a virtually blank, off-vertical wall in Glen Nevis, Scotland that comes in at about 5.14a (E9/10 7a).

I had the good fortune to meet Jules when Alan Goldbetter and I were climbing in Scotland at Creag an Dubh Loch in the Southern Cairngorms in September of 2013.  For the vast majority of our trip Alan and I didn’t see another soul while we were climbing.  In fact, Jules and his two friends were the first climbers we’d seen in a few days.  Prior to that we’d met only about ten other climbers over the previous two-plus weeks.  This isn’t because Scotland doesn’t have much climbing…Scotland has tons of climbing, it’s just that the weather conditions can make it difficult to climb there.  The bottom line is that it takes a certain type of grittiness to climb in Scotland and Lines has been doing it all his life.  I have the utmost respect for him and what he’s accomplished, all the while never seeking any glory, sponsorship or accolades.  He’s in it for the same reasons most of us “regular climbers” are: in one way or another it’s just fun and is addictive as hell.

Prior to meeting him I’d seen his name and picture in the Scotland guidebooks on numerous first ascents, especially on the sea cliffs at Erraid off the coast of the Isle of Mull and some extremely hard lines in the Cairngorms and Glen Nevis.  Still, neither Alan or I recognized him when we headed up to the Dubh Loch and passed through their small camp at the head of the Loch.  We quickly passed by and just said some hellos.  We were on our way to climb Cyclops...a fairly long route…and it was already nearly mid-day.  I found the whole thing rather amusing how Alan and I figured he was “somebody”.  When we walked through the next day on our way to climb The Mousetrap we stopped and chatted at length and introductions were made.  I remember a sheepish, knowing grin from him when I asked if his last name was Lines.  It was that kind of “aw shit, someone knows me and damn, they’re bloody Yanks” kind of look.  But as I read his book, it confirmed my impressions from that meeting.  He climbs for himself and doesn’t worry about what others think.  I’ve stayed in touch with him and I truly hope he finds a way to accept my invite to help him out if he wants to climb in the eastern US where I live.  Admittedly there were a number of times while reading the book when I said, “damn, he’s got to come here and climb at ‘fill in the blank’” (Seneca Rocks and the New River Gorge, both in WV; the Gunks in NY; Stone Mtn in NC, etc).

Creag an Dubh Loch

Now back to our regularly scheduled book discussion… 

Tears of the Dawn isn’t just about climbing.  It’s a progressive story that has you follow Lines’ years of free soloing, roped climbing, drilling the occasional bolt, working on oil derricks, paragliding, BASE jumping, a number of close calls and injuries and a good dose of the inner workings of his psyche that has driven him over the years.  It’s a beautiful insight into the mind of a hard-climbing free soloist and you get to witness the shift in what drives him from one of adrenalin to one of finding an inner peace and solace in climbing and free soloing.  All of this is something you rarely read about.  

What really keeps it so interesting are the anecdotal side-stories; the little vignettes that really tie everything together and keep you wanting to know more.  I felt like I was sitting down and a friend was reading this story to me, recalling his random adventures here and there.  I ended up reading it in sessions so that I could contemplate each recollection; otherwise it would have seemed overwhelming.  The entire book is well laid out and tied together as he begins with his visit to Yosemite, CA and ends with other adventures on that same trip to the Western US.  

If the book has one fault (I have to be critical in some way…otherwise what kind of review is this right?) it’s that Lines sometimes doesn’t give you enough of the story or at least not as much as you want or sometimes expect.  I remember thinking a number of times, “well how did that work out exactly?”; “how did he get from this to that?”; or “what else happened!”  Granted, the level of detail in his recollections is impressive.  But I know I could come up with a list of questions for him that would help bring more details to light. Perhaps he doesn't have those details or maybe it’s just his style and he doesn’t want to give you every bit of information; maybe he wants to leave you wanting more.  Whatever the case, it’s not enough to detract from the great writing quality of the book.

Overall it’s a wonderful read for climbers and non-climbers alike.  Some US climbers might have to look up some of the British terminology here and there, but that just makes you expand your vocabulary right?  The book is available through two online shops: Dave Macleod’s site (www.davemacleod.com) or the publisher, www.shelterstone.co.uk.  At 288 pages and hardback with some nice color photos in the middle, it's a nice pick-up.  I hope some of you out there give it a go and see what the fuss is all about…you won’t regret it!

My copy, back when I received it around Christmas