A Book Review of Sorts - Tears of the Dawn

I begin this entry by admitting that I haven’t read all that many books on others climbing adventures.  However, I do read a lot in general and as many of you know, I have a love for Scotland and most things Scottish.  It has something to do with a love for the land, the people and the beautiful rugged terrain of the country.  I did an independent study class in Scottish History in college and I've visited numerous times.  It reminds me a lot of the hills and valleys in Virginia and West Virginia and that’s home.  So with that in mind I decided I might as well do a blog entry doing a brief overview/review of Jules Lines’ new book, Tears of the Dawn.

First, a little background...

Many of you are likely asking, “who?” Jules Lines is without a doubt Scotland’s most accomplished free solo climber and probably one of the best climbers you’ve never heard of.  The book recounts his various adventures and misadventures of over three decades of extreme climbing.  From completing the ascent of all 277 Munros before finishing school (a Munro is a mountain in Scotland over 3000 ft.) to the continuing challenges of today.  His latest completed free solo project is “Hold Fast, Hold True”, a virtually blank, off-vertical wall in Glen Nevis, Scotland that comes in at about 5.14a (E9/10 7a).

I had the good fortune to meet Jules when Alan Goldbetter and I were climbing in Scotland at Creag an Dubh Loch in the Southern Cairngorms in September of 2013.  For the vast majority of our trip Alan and I didn’t see another soul while we were climbing.  In fact, Jules and his two friends were the first climbers we’d seen in a few days.  Prior to that we’d met only about ten other climbers over the previous two-plus weeks.  This isn’t because Scotland doesn’t have much climbing…Scotland has tons of climbing, it’s just that the weather conditions can make it difficult to climb there.  The bottom line is that it takes a certain type of grittiness to climb in Scotland and Lines has been doing it all his life.  I have the utmost respect for him and what he’s accomplished, all the while never seeking any glory, sponsorship or accolades.  He’s in it for the same reasons most of us “regular climbers” are: in one way or another it’s just fun and is addictive as hell.

Prior to meeting him I’d seen his name and picture in the Scotland guidebooks on numerous first ascents, especially on the sea cliffs at Erraid off the coast of the Isle of Mull and some extremely hard lines in the Cairngorms and Glen Nevis.  Still, neither Alan or I recognized him when we headed up to the Dubh Loch and passed through their small camp at the head of the Loch.  We quickly passed by and just said some hellos.  We were on our way to climb Cyclops...a fairly long route…and it was already nearly mid-day.  I found the whole thing rather amusing how Alan and I figured he was “somebody”.  When we walked through the next day on our way to climb The Mousetrap we stopped and chatted at length and introductions were made.  I remember a sheepish, knowing grin from him when I asked if his last name was Lines.  It was that kind of “aw shit, someone knows me and damn, they’re bloody Yanks” kind of look.  But as I read his book, it confirmed my impressions from that meeting.  He climbs for himself and doesn’t worry about what others think.  I’ve stayed in touch with him and I truly hope he finds a way to accept my invite to help him out if he wants to climb in the eastern US where I live.  Admittedly there were a number of times while reading the book when I said, “damn, he’s got to come here and climb at ‘fill in the blank’” (Seneca Rocks and the New River Gorge, both in WV; the Gunks in NY; Stone Mtn in NC, etc).

Creag an Dubh Loch

Now back to our regularly scheduled book discussion… 

Tears of the Dawn isn’t just about climbing.  It’s a progressive story that has you follow Lines’ years of free soloing, roped climbing, drilling the occasional bolt, working on oil derricks, paragliding, BASE jumping, a number of close calls and injuries and a good dose of the inner workings of his psyche that has driven him over the years.  It’s a beautiful insight into the mind of a hard-climbing free soloist and you get to witness the shift in what drives him from one of adrenalin to one of finding an inner peace and solace in climbing and free soloing.  All of this is something you rarely read about.  

What really keeps it so interesting are the anecdotal side-stories; the little vignettes that really tie everything together and keep you wanting to know more.  I felt like I was sitting down and a friend was reading this story to me, recalling his random adventures here and there.  I ended up reading it in sessions so that I could contemplate each recollection; otherwise it would have seemed overwhelming.  The entire book is well laid out and tied together as he begins with his visit to Yosemite, CA and ends with other adventures on that same trip to the Western US.  

If the book has one fault (I have to be critical in some way…otherwise what kind of review is this right?) it’s that Lines sometimes doesn’t give you enough of the story or at least not as much as you want or sometimes expect.  I remember thinking a number of times, “well how did that work out exactly?”; “how did he get from this to that?”; or “what else happened!”  Granted, the level of detail in his recollections is impressive.  But I know I could come up with a list of questions for him that would help bring more details to light. Perhaps he doesn't have those details or maybe it’s just his style and he doesn’t want to give you every bit of information; maybe he wants to leave you wanting more.  Whatever the case, it’s not enough to detract from the great writing quality of the book.

Overall it’s a wonderful read for climbers and non-climbers alike.  Some US climbers might have to look up some of the British terminology here and there, but that just makes you expand your vocabulary right?  The book is available through two online shops: Dave Macleod’s site (www.davemacleod.com) or the publisher, www.shelterstone.co.uk.  At 288 pages and hardback with some nice color photos in the middle, it's a nice pick-up.  I hope some of you out there give it a go and see what the fuss is all about…you won’t regret it!

My copy, back when I received it around Christmas

Climbing at the Peace Cave

As yet another snowstorm churns its way up the east coast of the US I once again find myself watching it from a distance, this time from the warm, tropical confines of Malaysia.  The last time this happened was during the "Snowmeggedon" storm back in 2010.  I love the snow and I love to ski.  But I'm not there so I have to make the best of where I am.  Hopefully, those of you that are "enduring" that storm can find some fun things to do in the white fluffy stuff.

Turning to my time here…I'm here for work.  So that really means that by the time we get back each evening I'm usually pretty beat.  But from the beginning of this trip I was bugging my boss here and there about a day off so I could go climbing.  I'd found a local guide service and read up on the cliffs at Batu Caves.  Finally I got my wish and was able to arrange things for this past Wednesday. Since we have to stick to a "two-deep" rule, my friend Jeremy from our group agreed to come along.  He said he'd climbed a good bit about 5 years back or so.  I honestly didn't care.  I thought that as long as he knew how to belay and climb a bit we'd have a great time.

At 0800 at our hotel we met up with one of our drivers and headed out to northern Kuala Lumpur (KL).  Traffic in this city is just insane.  There are motorbikes and scooters everywhere.  They weave in and out of traffic, seemingly obeying their own set of rules.  On the way out of town I marveled at the fact that there weren't zillions of accidents.

After some searching around for the address, we met up with Haziq at Verticale.  He has a shop upstairs in a commercial building that doesn't look like much from the outside but inside it's a surprisingly nice place.  Jeremy and I filled out some forms, paid some money (I think it was 150 RHM each…a little over $45) and helped Haziq with gear (I had actually brought my own harness, shoes and chalkbag but Jeremy needed stuff).  We spoke briefly about our skills and how we were going to set things up.  To my incredible surprise, Haziq had arranged to have another of his guides out there with us so that both of us could lead climb.  At this point, I was incredibly stoked.

We hopped in the cars and followed Haziq over to the Gua Damai Wall at Batu Caves.  Gua Damai translates to "Peace Cave".  We met up with Faiz and talked routes while gearing up.  The vast majority of climbs there are bolted sport routes though there are a few trad lines.  I really didn't care.  I just wanted to climb something, anything.  Haziq pointed us to two lines fairly close to each other that he thought would be good for us to warm up on.  I started up Redemption Song.

Gua Damai Wall at Batu Caves

My first moves off the ground were tentative.  My brain could see exactly where to go, but my body was taking its time catching up.  Ten feet or so up I clipped the first bolt.  The familiar feelings and movements came easily after that and I sauntered up the line to just below an overhang.  From a nice stance I was able to work out the moves and then launch into it, fully committed and cruising.

As I lowered off I looked over the rock again.  The limestone there is mostly sharp and abrasive; more so than anywhere else I've ever climbed.  But…at a certain height it changes dramatically and becomes a smooth worn layer of much denser limestone.  A bit higher above that it changes back to the sharp stuff.  But in the "smooth layer" you're no longer using crimps and pinches, but grabbing at small blocks, slapping on slopers or just finding as much purchase as you can for your fingers.  The contrast was obvious and very interesting.  As the climbing got harder through the day, my focus and concentration on finding the holds and reading the moves became increasingly important.

After lowering, we switched routes and I just remember having a good, fun time on Good Onion.  I cleaned the draws this time and quickly lowered, ready for the next challenge.  Haziq figured as much and sent me up Lightning Grip.  This was where I really first encountered the interesting difficulties of the change in the rock type I mentioned.  At about 1/2 height I reached an area of smooth limestone.  Haziq shouted to me that I needed to pull out left around a corner and out onto the face.  But the polished limestone was complicating matters.  As I committed to the moves out left I knew I needed to get my feet higher.  I tried to move but I was tentative with my footwork.  I cursed myself at my carelessness with my feet but I knew it wasn't happening and off I went on short ride.  With that knowledge in mind on my second attempt, I did much better with my footwork and cranked through the moves to a good stance before pulling my way up to the anchors on some nice two and three-finger pockets and slots.

Feeling in the groove, I jumped on the route that had shut Jeremy down…Monsoon.  And for someone who hasn't climbed in 5 years or so, he hung the draws a good long way up!  I could hear him below me as I climbed, "just wait till you hit the crux man!"  I finally reached it.  And surprisingly, I looked at it and knew exactly what to do.  It was an odd feeling…like I'd almost seen this sequence before somewhere else.  That feeling of being on autopilot through a sequence just took over...

A small ramp with a crack along the back edge slants up and away left from me.  Fingers in the polished crack, feet smearing on the face outside.  Make a few hard moves up, hand over hand.  Swing the right foot up, then push down with the left hand, crank with the right foot and reach high for a two-finger pocket with the right hand… sheer bliss.

Just below the crux on Monsoon

I lowered off feeling grateful for the experience and thrilled with the day so far.  I took a break and Jeremy told me that he was done but I could climb whatever I wanted.  We looked over a particular route that had been drawing my attention earlier.  The start was obviously a committing boulder problem over top of a deep ditch with a very bad landing.  I munched on an apple and put down copious amounts of water as I talked with Haziq about routes.  He mentioned he could set me on some more difficult routes but I kinda had my mind set on doing something multi-pitch.  I wanted to get up high on this place.  Haziq and I had talked earlier about some of the climbs going up 2 or 3 pitches so I asked him if it was possible for me to do this thing with the tough start and then link it to something else for a 2nd and 3rd pitch.  Sure thing.  But instead of Haziq coming with me, he asked Faiz to go.

The lower sequence came together just as I suspected.  The start was committing, but I quickly got my left hand into a nice, deep 3-finger pocket.  Above that was a small pocket for the right hand but it was more than enough to allow me to rock up my left hand and crossover the right hand to a jug.  A few more moves and I was cruising up the line and just enjoying each new challenge.  The top of the first pitch had an interesting exit through some overhanging rock but it wasn't as difficult as I initially expected.

High on the first pitch of TJ

After Faiz came up we had to negotiate an interesting traverse into a small cave in order to link up with Redemption Song and the start of its 2nd pitch.  Faiz found a sweet belay seat for the 2nd pitch and I started up into the smooth limestone.  I figured my way up on some slopers and a pinch on a block before finally getting a nice stance and a look at the rest of the pitch…I had yet to clip a bolt so I was looking around for that as well.  Once I found the line, it was a sustained sequence of moves on small pockets and crimps to a nice rest.  I let out a loud shout after pulling through to the rest.  Here I thought I was done with the difficulties…nope…no such luck.  I looked up and right.  The wall remained steep and committing.  Once more into the breach, I stabbed my right foot into a nice stemming position.  From here I was able to read the moves and make my way up to a stance of sorts at the end of the pitch.  The anchor was at a logical horizontal break but I was going to be in a true hanging belay for awhile.

Stemming it out on pitch 2 of Redemption Song

Prior to starting the route I had told Faiz that I wanted to lead pitch 1 and pitch 2.  I just didn't know if I was really up for a third and harder pitch at the end of it all.  But as I belayed Faiz up to the 2nd pitch anchor, I studied the holds above starting into the 3rd pitch.  The line called to me like a Siren's Song and by the time Faiz got there my mind was set...I knew I was climbing again.

Belaying Faiz up pitch 2 of Redemption Song

Starting the 3rd pitch was tough if for no other reason than I had to climb over Faiz on my left in order to actually start climbing the route.  Fortunately he was able to clip the lead rope into a threaded sling out further left.  A difficult sequence of crimps/pinches and small pockets led to a stance with a thin, right leaning crack.  I clipped the bolt but I could feel my strength waning fast.  I tried to adjust my hand in a slot but as I pulled up slack with my left hand to clip the rope I grabbed the dogbone of the quickdraw with my right hand without even really thinking about it.  I got the rope clipped in the quickdraw but I knew I was about to fall.  I really didn't want to repeat the tough sequence so I shouted, "take!"  Faiz thought I might've been done, but there was no way I wasn't finishing the pitch.  And then one of the most unique things I've ever had happen while climbing occurred.  As I stepped back onto the rock, the afternoon Call to Prayers starting ringing out from the nearby mosque.  It was incredibly surreal.  The sounds echoed off the cliff walls as I climbed and the reverberating sound mixed with the next wave.  The climbing was still difficult and sustained for another 30 feet or so but then finally backed off and I clambered up to an anchor.  I took my time and looked around up there as the call from the mosque wound down.  I thought about how lucky I was to be there and thanked God for the experience…for everything to have just come together nicely for me to be there in that moment.

Finishing up pitch 3 of Redemption Song

I finally lowered off and cleaned the route.  Faiz and I made two rappels to the ground and I had an ear-to-ear grin on my face.  Another great day climbing in a fantastic location with some great people…what could be better than that?

Me with Faiz after a great day on the rock in Malaysia